thermometer, so as it can be seen during the process of stoving,
without the necessity of opening the door, which, of course, more or
less cools the oven. And, by the way, this thermometer must register
higher than the highest temperature the oven is capable of reaching.
Above is shown a sketch of the stove, interior and exterior, which
will give an idea of what a japanner's stove is like.

[Illustration: FIG. 3--Showing Stove when Open, and Back of Door.]

Inside the stove it will be necessary to fix rows of iron rods, some
four inches from the top, from which to suspend the work, or
angle-iron ledges can be used on which the rods or bars can be fixed,
these arrangements being varied according to the particular
description of work, individual fancy, or other circumstances. Large S
hooks are about the handiest to use. A necessary adjunct of the stove
is a pan, which can be made by any handy man or tinworker, which
should be made to fit the bottom of the stove above the gas jets, it
being arranged that it rests on two side ledges, or along some rods.
One a couple of inches in depth will be found sufficient, and it will
repay its cost in the saving of enamel, it being possible with its use
to enamel a bicycle with as little as a gallon of enamel. Some workmen
have the tray made with a couple of hinged side flaps, to turn over
and cover up the pan when not in use, but this is a matter of fancy.
Of course, they must always be covered up when not in use. For those
who would prefer to use Bunsen burners, I show at Fig. 4 a sketch of
the best to employ, these having three rows of holes in each.

[Illustration: FIG. 4.--Bunsen Burner.]

When brick ovens are employed they must be lined with sheet-iron, and