with his usual skill, came within a quarter of a mile of the channel
leading to the landing-place. The fog seemed to consolidate into the
outline of trees; hard land was gradually formed, as we approached; and
as the two river-shores finally inclosed us, the air cleared, and long,
wooded hills arose in the distance. Before us lay a single wharf, with
three wooden buildings leaning against a hill of sand.

"But where is Kexholm?"

"A verst inland," says the captain; "and I will give you just half an
hour to see it."

There were a score of peasants, with clumsy two-wheeled carts and shaggy
ponies at the landing. Into one of these we clambered, gave the word of
command, and were whirled off at a gallop. There may have been some
elasticity in the horse, but there certainly was none in the cart. It
was a perfect conductor, and the shock with which it passed over stones
and leaped ruts was instantly communicated to the _os sacrum_, passing
thence along the vertebræ, to discharge itself in the teeth. Our driver
was a sunburnt Finn, who was bent upon performing his share of the
contract, in order that he might afterwards with a better face demand a
ruble. On receiving just the half, however, he put it into his pocket,
without a word of remonstrance.

"_Suomi?_" I asked, calling up a Finnish word with an effort.

"_Suomi-laïnen_" he answered, proudly enough, though the exact meaning
is, "I am a Swamplander."

Kexholm, which was founded in 1295, has attained since then a population