of the rain. Huddled against the smoke-stack, we could do nothing but
look on the draggled soldiers and _mujiks_ splashing through the mud,
the low yellow fortress, which has long outlived its importance, and the
dark-gray waste of lake which loomed in front, suggestive of rough water
and kindred abominations.

There it was, at last,--Lake Ladoga,--and now our prow turns to unknown
regions. We steamed past the fort, past a fleet of brigs, schooners, and
brigantines, with huge, rounded stems and sterns, laden with wood from
the Wolkonskoi forests, and boldly entered the gray void of fog and
rain. The surface of the lake was but slightly agitated, as the wind
gradually fell and a thick mist settled on the water. Hour after hour
passed away, as we rushed onward through the blank, and we naturally
turned to our fellow-passengers in search of some interest or diversion
to beguile the time. The heavy-bearded, peasants and their
weather-beaten wives were scattered around the deck in various
attitudes, some of the former asleep on their backs, with open mouths,
beside the smoke-stack. There were many picturesque figures among them,
and, if I possessed the quick pencil of Kaulbach, I might have filled a
dozen leaver of my sketch-book. The _bourgeoisie_ were huddled on the
quarter-deck benches, silent, and fearful of sea-sickness. But a very
bright, intelligent young officer turned up, who had crossed the Ural,
and was able to entertain us with an account of the splendid
sword-blades of Zlatáoust. He was now on his way to the copper mines of
Pitkaranda, on the northeastern shore of the lake.

About nine o'clock in the evening, although still before sunset, the fog
began to darken, and I was apprehensive that we should have some
difficulty in finding the island of Konewitz, which was to be our
stopping-place for the night. The captain ordered the engine to be