covered with snow, contrasting remarkably with the dark foliage of the
forests at its base, and probably the same which was seen by Broughton,
and named by him _Mount St. Helen's_. We pulled against a strong current
all this day, and at evening our guide made us enter a little river, on
the bank of which we found a good camping place, under a grove of oaks,
and in the midst of odoriferous wild flowers, where we passed a night
more tranquil than that which had preceded it.

On the morning of the 6th we ascended this small stream, and soon
arrived at a large village called _Thlakalamah_, the chief whereof, who
was a young and handsome man, was called _Keasseno_, and was a relative
of our guide. The situation of this village is the most charming that
can be, being built on the little river that we had ascended, and indeed
at its navigable head, being here, but a torrent with numerous cascades
leaping from rock to rock in their descent to the deep, limpid water,
which then flows through a beautiful prairie, enamelled with odorous
flowers of all colors, and studded with superb groves of oak. The
freshness and beauty of this spot, which Nature seemed to have taken
pleasure in adorning and enriching with her most precious gifts,
contrasted, in a striking manner, with the indigence and uncleanliness
of its inhabitants; and I regretted that it had not fallen to the lot of
civilized men. I was wrong no doubt: it is just that those should be
most favored by their common mother, who are least disposed to pervert
her gifts, or to give the preference to advantages which are factitious,
and often very frivolous. We quitted with regret this charming spot,
and soon came to another large village, which our guide informed us was
called _Kathlapootle_, and was situated at the confluence of a small
stream, that seemed to flow down from the mountain covered with snow,
which we had seen the day before: this river is called _Cowilkt_. We
coasted a pretty island, well timbered, and high enough above the level