visit which ended after a trying journey in an attack of intermittent
fever and general prostration, during which he first conceived the idea
which has made Ternate famous in the history of natural science.

[Illustration: A.R. WALLACE Singapore, 1862]

One or two points in the following letters recall certain contrasts
similar to those already drawn between Darwin's impression of places and
people and those made on the mind of Wallace by practically the same
conditions. A typical instance is found in their estimate of the life
and work of the missionaries whom they met and from whom they received
the warmest hospitality. Their experience included both Protestant and
Roman Catholic, and from Darwin's account the former appeared to him to
have the more civilising effect on the people, not only from a
religious but also from the economic and industrial points of view.

In the "Journal" (p. 419) we find a detailed account of a visit to the
missionary settlement at Waimate, New Zealand. After describing the
familiar English appearance of the whole surroundings, he adds: "All
this is very surprising when it is considered that five years ago
nothing but the fern flourished here. Moreover, native workmanship,
taught by these missionaries, has effected this change--the lesson of
the missionary is the enchanter's wand. The house had been built, the
windows framed, the fields ploughed, and even the trees grafted, by the
New Zealander. When I looked at the whole scene it was admirable. It was
not that England was brought vividly before my mind; ... nor was it the
triumphant feeling at seeing what Englishmen could effect; but rather
the high hopes thus inspired for the future progress of this fine
island."