butter has to be added. It is a regrettable fact that some
unprincipled makers are tempted to use cheaper vegetable fats as
substitutes for the natural butter, but none of these are really
palatable or satisfactory in use, and none of the leading British
firms are guilty of using such adulterants, or of the still more
objectionable practice of grinding cocoa-shells and mixing them with
their common chocolates.[14]

Flavouring is introduced according to the object in view; vanilla is
largely employed in this country, though in France and Spain cinnamon
is used, and elsewhere various spices. Willoughby, in his "Travels in
Spain" (1664), writes:

"To every three and a half pounds of powder they add two pounds
of sugar, twelve Vanillos, a little Guiny pepper (which is used
by the Spaniards only), and a little Achiote[15] to give a
colour. They melt the sugar, and then mingle all together, and
work it up either in rolls or leaves."

Another writer says: "The usual proportion at Madrid to a
hundred kernels of cocoa is to add two grains of Chile pepper,
a handful of anise, as many flowers--called by the natives
vinacaxtlides, or little ears--six white roses in powder, a pod
of campeche,[16] two drachms of cinnamon, a dozen almonds and
as many hazel-nuts, with achiote enough to give it a reddish
tincture; the sugar and vanilla are mixed at discretion, as
also the musk and ambergris. They frequently work this paste
with orange water, which they think gives it a greater
consistence and firmness."