part--light, fanciful and striking to a degree--produce an effect as
pleasing as it is extraordinary. Add to this, the ever-restless feet of
devotees, going in and coming out--the worn pavement, and the frittered
ornaments, in consequence--seem to convince you that the ardour and
activity of devotion is almost equal to that of business.[39]

As you enter the cathedral, at the centre door, by descending two steps,
you are struck with the length and loftiness of the nave, and with the
lightness of the gallery which runs along the upper part of it. Perhaps the
nave is too narrow for its length. The lantern of the central large tower
is beautifully light and striking. It is supported by four massive
clustered pillars, about forty feet in circumference;[40] but on casting
your eye downwards, you are shocked at the tasteless division of the choir
from the nave by what is called a _Grecian screen_: and the interior of the
transepts has undergone a like preposterous restoration. The rose windows
of the transepts, and that at the west end of the nave, merit your
attention and commendation. I could not avoid noticing, to the right, upon
entrance, perhaps the oldest side chapel in the cathedral: of a date,
little less ancient than that of the northern tower; and perhaps of the end
of the twelfth century. It contains by much the finest specimens of stained
glass--of the early part of the XVIth century. There is also some beautiful
stained glass on each side of the Chapel of the Virgin,[41] behind the
choir; but although very ancient, it is the less interesting, as not being
composed of groups, or of historical subjects. Yet, in this, as in almost
all the churches which I have seen, frightful devastations have been made
among the stained-glass windows by the fury of the Revolutionists.[42]

Respecting the MONUMENTS, you ought to know that the famous ROLLO lies in
one of the side-chapels, farther down to the right, upon entering; although
his monument cannot be older than the thirteenth century. My attachment to