beneath a profusion of ornament by way of collar; and have beheld a
farmer's horse, led out to the plough, with trappings as gorgeous and
striking as those of a General's charger brought forward for a review. The
carts and vehicles are usually balanced in the centre upon two wheels,
which diminishes much of the pressure upon the horse. Yet the caps of the
wheels are frightfully long, and inconveniently projecting: while the
eternally loud cracking of the whip is most repulsive to nervous ears. On
market days, the horses stand pretty close to each other for sale; and are
led off, for shew, amidst boys, girls, and women, who contrive very
dexterously to get out of the way of their active hoofs. The French seem to
have an instinctive method of doing that, which, with ourselves, seems to
demand forethought and deliberation.

Of the STREETS, in this extraordinary city, that of the _Great Clock--(Rue
de la Grosse Horloge)_ which runs in a straight line from the western front
of the Cathedral, at right angles with the _Rue des Carmes_, is probably
the most important, ancient, and interesting. When we were conveyed, on our
entrance, (in the cabriolet of the Diligence) beneath the arch to the upper
part of which this old fashioned clock is attached, we were lost in
admiration at the singularity of the scene. The inhabitants saw, and
enjoyed, our astonishment. There is a fountain beneath, or rather on one
side of this arch; over which is sculptured a motley group of insipid
figures, of the latter time of Louis XIV. The old tower near this clock
merits a leisurely survey: as do also some old houses, to the right, on
looking at it. It was within this old tower that a bell was formerly
tolled, at nine o'clock each evening, to warn the inhabitants abroad to
return within the walls of the city.[61]

Turning to the left, in this street, and going down a sharp descent, we
observed a stand of hackney coaches in a small square, called _La Place de