and St. John's, which ought to be visited if time could be spared,
going first on the beach, and returning by the high-road, a circuit
of about two miles._

* * * * *

[Illustration: RYDE, ISLE OF WIGHT.]

Ryde now ranks the first town in the island for the number of its
elegant _modern_ erections, both public and private; and if building
should be carried on with an equal degree of spirit for a few years
more, it will also be considerably the most populous. It occupies two
sides of a lofty hill, falling with a regular descent to the sea on the
north, opposite Portsmouth, from which it is about five miles across.
This short passage, from its perfect safety and general convenience,
proves a great local advantage, being performed several times a-day by
superior steam-vessels in about half an hour. But besides these
established means of conveyance, large-sized wherries (most excellent
sea-boats,) are in constant attendance to take parties across on
moderate terms, or for hire by the day upon any aquatic trip, even to
Brighton.

The town used formerly to be distinguished into Upper and Lower Ryde,
from having several fields between, but now it is only the difference of
position which calls for any term of distinction; for where the green
meadows then formed the separation, is now the most closely built upon;
and at the beginning of this century, Yelf's Hotel stood a new and
isolated object.

The principal streets are very open, clean, and well-paved; regularly