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The Art of Perfumery - And Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants by George William Septimus Piesse
page 48 of 292 (16%)
_Andropogon nardus_, cultivated in the Moluccas. This said andropogon
(geranium!) oil can be used to adulterate the true geranium, and hence
we suppose its nomenclature in the drug markets. The genuine rose-leaf
geranium oil fetches about 6_s._ per ounce, while the andropogon oil is
not worth more than that sum per pound. And we may observe here, that
the perfuming essential oils are best purchased through the wholesale
perfumers, as from the nature of their trade they have a better
knowledge and means of obtaining the real article than the drug-broker.
On account of the pleasing odor of the true oil of rose-leaf geranium,
it is a valuable article for perfuming many materials, and appears to
give the public great satisfaction.

HELIOTROPE.--Either by maceration or enfleurage with clarified
fat, we may obtain this fine odor from the flowers of the _Heliotrope
Peruvianum_ or _H. grandiflorum_. Exquisite as the odor of this plant
is, at present it is not applied to use by the manufacturing perfumer.
This we think rather a singular fact, especially as the perfume is
powerful and the flowers abundant. We should like to hear of some
experiments being tried with this plant for procuring its odor in this
country, and for that purpose now suggest the mode of operation which
would most likely lead to successful results. For a small trial in the
first instance, which can be managed by any person having the run of a
garden, we will say, procure an ordinary glue-pot now in common use,
which melts the material by the boiling of water; it is in fact a
water-bath, in chemical parlance--one capable of holding a pound or more
of melted fat. At the season when the flowers are in bloom, obtain half
a pound of fine mutton suet, melt the suet and strain it through a close
hair-sieve, allow the liquefied fat, as it falls from the sieve, to drop
into cold spring water; this operation granulates and washes the blood
and membrane from it. In order to start with a perfectly inodorous
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