in her own kitchen, let her take the little volume to her boudoir, and read
it there as gossiping notes of the _beau monde_ in the days when James I
and the Charleses ruled the land. She will find herself in lofty company,
and on intimate terms with them. They come down to our level, without any
show of condescension. Lords and ladies who were personages of a solemn
state pageant, are now human neighbourly creatures, owning to likes and
dislikes, and letting us into the secrets of their daily habits.

It pleases me to think of Henrietta Maria, in her exile, busying herself in
her still-room, and forgetting her dangers and sorrows in simpling and
stilling and kitchen messes; and of her devoted Sir Kenelm, in the moments
when he is neither abeting her Royalist plots, nor diverting her mind to
matters of high science, or the mysteries of the Faith, but bringing to her
such lowlier consolations as are hinted in "Hydromel as I made it weak for
the Queen Mother." We are not waiting in a chill ante-chamber when we read,
"The Queen's ordinary Bouillon de Santé in a morning was thus," or of the
Pressis which she "used to take at nights--of great yet temperate
nourishment--instead of a Supper." And who can hint at Court scandals in
the face of such evidence of domesticity as "The Queen useth to baste meat
with yolks of fresh eggs, &c." or "The way that the Countess de Penalva
makes the Portuguese eggs for the Queen is this"? We cannot help being
interested in the habits of Lady Hungerford, who "useth to make her mead at
the end of summer, when she takes up her Honey, and begins to drink it in
Lent." My Lady Gower and her husband were of independent tastes. Each had
their own receipts. It must be remembered that Dr. Johnson said no woman
could write a cookery-book; and he threatened to write one himself. And Sir
Kenelm had many serious rivals among his own sex.

In such an _embarras de choix_ as given by all these drink receipts, we may
be in doubt whether to try "My Lord Gorge's Meath," or "The Countess of