proposed, that we should all sup together that night at _Pont
St.-Esprit_, where, he assured us, there was one of the best cooks in
France, and he would undertake to regulate the supper at a reasonable
price. This was the first time we had eat with other company, though it
is the general practice in the southern parts of France. Upon entering
the house, where this _Maitre Cuisinier_ and prime minister of the
kitchen presided, I began to conceive but an indifferent opinion of the
Major's judgment; the house, the kitchen, the cook, were, in appearance,
all against it; yet, in spite of all, I never sat down to so good a
supper; and should be sorry to sit often at table, where such a one was
set before me. I will not--nay, I cannot tell you what we had; but you
will be surprised to know what we paid,--what think you of three livres
each? when I assure you, such a supper, if it were to be procured in
London, could not be provided for a guinea a head! and we were only
seven who sat down to it.

I must not omit to tell you, that all the second day's voyage we heard
much talk of the danger there would be in passing the Bridge of _Pont
St. Esprit_; and that many horses and men landed some miles before we
arrived there, choosing rather to walk or ride in the hot sun, than swim
through _so much danger_. Yet the truth is, there was none; and, I
believe, seldom is any. The _Patron_ of the barge, indeed, made a great
noise, and affected to shew how much skill was necessary to guide it
through the main arch, for I think the bridge consists of thirty; yet
the current itself must carry every thing through that approaches it,
and he must have skill, indeed, who could avoid it. There was not in the
least degree any fall; but yet, it passed through with such violence,
that we run half a league in a minute; and very soon after landed at the
town of Pont. St. Esprit, which has nothing in it very remarkable, but
this long bridge, the good cook, and the first olive tree we had seen.