we began to ascend the _Pyrenees_ upon a noble road, indeed! hewn upon
the sides of those adamantine hills, of a considerable width, and an
easy ascent, quite up to the high _Fortress of Bellegarde_, which stands
upon the pinnacle of the highest hill, and which commands this renowned
pass.

You will easier conceive than I can describe the many rude and various
scenes which mountains so high, so rocky, so steep, so divided, and, I
may add too, so fertile, exhibit to the traveler's eyes. The constant
water-falls from the melted snow above, the gullies and breaches made by
water-torrents during great rains, the rivulets in the vale below, the
verdure on their banks, the herds of goats, the humble, but picturesque
habitations of the goat-herds, the hot sun shining upon the _snow-capt_
hills above, and the steep precipices below, all crowd together so
strongly upon the imagination, that they intoxicate the passenger with
delight.

The French nation in no instance shew their greatness more than in the
durable and noble manner they build and make their high-roads; here,
the expence was not only cutting the hard mountain, and raising a fine
road on their sides, but building arches of an immense height from
mountain to mountain, and over breaks and water-falls, with great
solidity, and excellent workmanship.

The invalide guard at this fortress take upon themselves, very
improperly, and I am sure very unwarrantably, to examine strangers who
pass, with an impertinent curiosity; for they must admit all who come
with a proper _passa-porte_ into _Spain_, and durst not admit any
without it. On my arrival at the Guard-house, they seized my horse's
head, and called for my _passa-porte_, in terms very unlike the usual