joined to another, drop the loop from your hook, which insert in the
place to be joined; draw the loop through and continue working.

TO PASS FROM ONE ROUND TO ANOTHER WITHOUT BREAKING THE THREAD.--In
working mats and many similar articles this is very desirable. Having
finished one round, see whether a s.c., d.c., or t.c. stitch begins
the next; for s.c. make one chain, for d.c. three, for t.c. four; slip
the needle out, and twist the chain, then continue working. This
twisted chain will have all the appearance of a d.c. or t.c. stitch.
Should the round not begin exactly in the same place, slip-stitch to
the part where it commences, as it will seldom be more than a few
stitches in advance.

SQUARE CROCHET is a term often used, and generally understood, as the
engraved patterns are mostly in it. Lest, however, any of our readers
should not be familiar with the name, we will explain it. The squares
are either open or close. An open square consists of one d.c., two
ch.--missing two on the line beneath, before making the next stitch. A
close square has three successive d.c. Thus, any given number of close
squares, followed by an open, will have so many times three d.c., and
_one over_; and any foundation made for a pattern to be worked in
square crochet will have a number of chains divisible by three,
leaving one over.

TO CONTRACT AN EDGE.--In forming leaves and many other things, this is
very useful. It can be done in d.c., t.c., or long t.c. Having twisted
the thread round the needle as often as the stitch may require, insert
it in the work, and half-do a stitch. Instead of completing it, again
twist the thread round, until the same number of loops are on, and
work a stitch completely. Thus, for two stitches taken in the work,