an upright position in pairs to each end of the 2×4 scantling, and, if
a foot wall is to be built, sixteen inches apart, as the box plank
will take up four inches. To hold the studding together at the top,
take pieces of 2×6 lumber, make two mortises in each piece large
enough to slip easily up and down on the studding, forming a tie. Make
one mortise long enough to insert a key, so that the studding can be
opened at the top when the box plank are to be raised. When the box
plank are in position, nail cleats with a hole in each of them on each
side of the studding, and corresponding holes in the studding, into
which insert a pin to hold the plank to the studding. Bore holes along
up in the studding, to hold the boxes when raised.

To make the walls hollow, and I would do it in a building for any
purpose, use inch boards the same width of the box plank, one side
planed; put the two rough sides together with shingles between,
nailing them together with six-penny nails; place them in the middle
of the wall, the thin end of the shingle down. That gives them a bevel
and can be easily raised with the boxes. To tie the wall together, at
every third course place strips of boards a little shorter than the
thickness of the wall; cut notches in each so that the concrete will
fill in, holding all fast. The side walls being up, place two inch
planks on top of the wall upon which to rest the upper joists, put on
joist and rafters, remove the box plank, take inch boards for boxes,
cut to fit between joists and rafters, and fill with concrete to upper
side of rafters, which makes walls that will keep out cold and damp,
all kinds of vermin, and a roof which nothing but a cyclone can
remove. In making door and window frames, make the jambs two inches
narrower than the thickness of the walls, nailing on temporary two
inch strips.