Hotel de la Plage. Berneval, near Dieppe,
Monday night, May 31st (1897).

My dearest Robbie,

I have decided that the only way in which to get boots properly is to go
to France to receive them. The Douane charged 3 francs. How could you
frighten me as you did? The next time you order boots please come to
Dieppe to get them sent to you. It is the only way and it will be an
excuse for seeing you.

I am going to-morrow on a pilgrimage. I always wanted to be a pilgrim,
and I have decided to start early to-morrow to the shrine of Notre Dame
de Liesse. Do you know what Liesse is? It is an old word for joy. I
suppose the same as Letizia, Lætitia. I just heard to-night of the
shrine or chapel, by chance, as you would say, from the sweet woman of
the auberge, who wants me to live always at Berneval. She says Notre
Dame de Liesse is wonderful, and helps everyone to the secret of joy--I
do not know how long it will take me to get to the shrine, as I must
walk. But, from what she tells me, it will take at least six or seven
minutes to get there, and as many to come back. In fact the chapel of
Notre Dame de Liesse is just fifty yards from the Hotel. Isn't it
extraordinary? I intend to start after I have had my coffee, and then to
bathe. Need I say that this is a miracle? I wanted to go on a
pilgrimage, and I find the little grey stone chapel of Our Lady of Joy
is brought to me. It has probably been waiting for me all these purple
years of pleasure, and now it comes to meet me with Liesse as its
message. I simply don't know what to say. I wish you were not so hard to
poor heretics,[10] and would admit that even for the sheep who has no