me into a bad humour, she charged me the next day for two; but I
_charged her_ with _Mons. Le Connetable_, who behaved like a gentleman,
though I think he was only a _marchand de tonneau_: but then he was a
_wine_ not _beer_ cooper, who hooped the old Lady's barrel.

Where-ever I was ill-used or imposed upon, I always sent a pretty heavy
packet by the post, after I had run down a hundred miles or two, by way
of _draw-back_, upon my host, and recompence to the King's high road;
for in France,

_"Like the Quakers' by-way,
'Tis plain without turnpikes, so
nothing to pay"_

An old witch, who had half starved us at _Montpellier_, for want of
provisions, when we went, and for want of fire to dry us, when we came
back, left a piece of candle in my budget, which I did not omit to
return by the post, _well packed up_, lest it should grease other
packets of more importance, by riding an hundred leagues; besides this
it was accompanied by a very civil _letter of advice_, under another
cover.




LETTER LI.


The next town of any note is _Sens_, a large, _ragged_, ancient city;
but adorned with a most noble Gothic cathedral, more magnificent than