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Watch and Clock Escapements - A Complete Study in Theory and Practice of the Lever, Cylinder and Chronometer Escapements, Together with a Brief Account of the Origin and Evolution of the Escapement in Horology by Anonymous
page 81 of 243 (33%)
[Illustration: Fig. 67]

[Illustration: Fig. 68]

[Illustration: Fig. 69]

[Illustration: Fig. 70]

No attempt should be made to move a jewel pin unless the cement which
holds the jewel is soft, so that when the parts cool off the jewel is as
rigid as ever. A very little practice will enable any workman who has
the necessary delicacy of touch requisite to ever become a good
watchmaker, to manipulate a jewel pin to his entire satisfaction with no
other setter than a pair of tweezers and his eye, with a proper
knowledge of what he wants to accomplish. To properly heat a roller for
truing up the jewel pin, leave it on the staff, and after removing the
hairspring hold the balance by the rim in a pair of tweezers, "flashing
it" back and forth through the flame of a rather small alcohol lamp
until the rim of the balance is so hot it can just be held between the
thumb and finger, and while at this temperature the jewel pin can be
pressed forward or backward, as illustrated in Fig. 66, and then a touch
or two will set the pin straight or parallel with the staff. Figs. 68
and 69 are self-explanatory. For cementing in a jewel pin a very
convenient tool is shown at Figs. 67 and 70. It is made of a piece of
copper wire about 1/16" in diameter, bent to the form shown at Fig. 67.
The ends _b b_ of the copper wire are flattened a little and recessed on
their inner faces, as shown in Fig. 70, to grasp the edges of the roller
_A_. The heat of an alcohol lamp is applied to the loop of the wire at
_g_ until the small bit of shellac placed in the hole _h_ melts. The
necessary small pieces of shellac are made by warming a bit of the gum
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