the heights which we passed were crowned with ruined castles, mementoes
of the past dominion of the Arabs. We saw some of the Troglodytes coming
from underground now and then, and pausing to look at us. Their dress is
a simple barracan, or blanket-mantle, thrown around them; few indulge in
the luxury of a shirt; and they go armed with a great thick stick
terminating in a hook. They look cleanly and healthy in spite of their
burrowing life, but are fox-like in character as in manners, and bear a
reputation for dishonesty.

A little after mid-day we descried afar off the village of Kaleebah,
which is built above-ground, and occupies a most commanding position on
a bold mountain-top. It remained in sight ahead a long time, cheating us
with an appearance of nearness. The inhabitants resemble, in all
respects, their mole-brethren, and occupy themselves chiefly in
cultivating olives and barley. Government exacts from them two
imposts--one special, of a hundred and fifty mahboubs on the
olive-crops; and one general, of five hundred mahboubs. We passed the
village at length, and encamped an hour beyond. Here were the last
olive-groves which were to cheer our eyes for many a long month--many a
long year, maybe. Their dark masses covered the swells right and left,
and near at hand isolated trees formed pleasant patches of shadow.

We left our camping-ground at length next day, having overcome the
obstinate sluggishness of the blacks, and marched nearly nine hours. The
barren forms of the desert begin now to appear, the ground being broken
up into huge hills that run mostly in circles, and groups, and broad
stony valleys. The formation is limestone, often containing flints, with
a little sandstone. Patches of barley here and there splashed this arid
surface with green. At a great distance we saw two or three Arab tents,
and one flock of sheep. Towards evening began to appear a number of