in the Eternal City. Amongst the peasants that you meet, praying in the
churches, or basking in the sun-light, or toiling in the deadly Campagna
plains, there must be some, who, if they knew it, descend in direct
lineage from the ancient "Plebs." It may be so, or rather it must be so;
but of the fact there is little outward evidence. You look in vain for
the characteristic features of the old Roman face, such as you behold
them when portrayed in ancient statues. The broad low brow, the
depressed skull, the protruding under-jaw, and the thin compressed lips,
are to be seen no longer. Indeed, though I make the remark with the fear
of the artist-world before my eyes, I should hardly say myself, that the
Romans of the present day were a very handsome race; and of their own
type they are certainly inferior both to Tuscans and Neapolitans. The
men are well formed and of good height, but not powerful in build or
make, and their features are rather marked than regular. As for the
women, when you have once perceived that hair may be black as coal and
yet coarse as string, that bright sparkling eyes may be utterly devoid of
expression, and that an olive complexion may be deepened by the absence
of washing, you grow somewhat sceptical as to the reality of their
vaunted beauty. All this, however, is a matter of personal taste, about
which it is useless to express a decided opinion. I must content myself
with the remark, that the Roman peasantry as depicted, year after year,
on the walls of our academy, bear about the same resemblance to the
article provided for home consumption, as the ladies in an ordinary
London ball-room bear to the portraits in the "Book of Beauty." The
peasants' costumes too, like the smock-frocks and scarlet cloaks of Old
England, are dying out fast. On the steps in the "Piazza di Spagna," and
in the artists' quarter above, you see some score or so of models with
the braided boddices, and the head-dresses of folded linen, standing
about for hire. The braid, it is true, is torn; the snow-white linen
dirt-besmeared, and the brigand looks feeble and inoffensive, while the