For the next thirty miles the road closely followed the west shore of
Loch Lomond, and for the larger part of the way we had a magnificent
panorama of the lake and the numberless green islands that rose out of
its silvery waters. Our view in places was cut off by the fine country
estates that lay immediately on the shores of the lake, but the grounds,
rich with shrubbery and bright with flowers, were hardly less pleasing
than the lake itself. These prevailed at the southern portion of the
lake only, and for at least twenty miles the road closely followed the
shore, leading around short turns on the very edges of steep embankments
or over an occasional sharp hill--conditions that made careful driving
necessary. Just across the lake, which gradually grew narrower as we
went north, lay the low Scotch mountains, their green outlines subdued
by a soft blue haze, but forming a striking background to the
ever-varying scenery of the lake and opposite shore. Near the
northern end on the farther side is the entrance to the Trosachs, made
famous by Scott's "Lady of the Lake." The roads to this region are
closed to motors--the only instance that I remember where public
highways were thus interdicted. The lake finally dwindled to a brawling
mountain stream, which we followed for several miles to Crianlarich, a
rude little village nestling at the foot of the rugged hills. From here
we ran due west to Oban, and for twenty miles of the distance the road
was the worst we saw in Scotland, being rough and covered with loose,
sharp stones that were ruinous to tires. It ran through a bleak,
unattractive country almost devoid of habitations and with little sign
of life excepting the flocks of sheep grazing on the short grasses that
covered the steep, stony hillsides. The latter half of the distance the
surroundings are widely different, an excellent though winding and
narrow road leading us through some of the finest scenes of the
Highlands. Especially pleasing was the ten-mile jaunt along the north
shore of Loch Awe, with the glimpses of Kilchurn Castle which we caught