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Prehistoric Textile Fabrics Of The United States, Derived From Impressions On Pottery - Third Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1881-82, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1884, pages 393-425 by William Henry Holmes
page 19 of 34 (55%)
a small fragment of pottery found in Fort Ripley County, Missouri. The
combination of the two series of threads or strands clearly indicates
the type of fabric under consideration, the twisted cords of the warp
being placed very far apart. The remarkable feature of this example is
the character of the woof, which seems to be a broad braid formed by
plaiting three strands of untwisted fiber, probably bast. All the
details are shown in the most satisfactory manner in the clay cast.

[Illustration: Fig. 84.--From ancient pottery, Missouri.]

The open character of the web in this specimen assists very much, in
explaining the structure of tightly-woven examples such as that shown in
Fig. 85, in which the cross cords are so closely placed that the broad
bands of the opposing series are completely hidden.

[Illustration: Fig. 85.--From ancient pottery, Tennessee.]

I have made the drawing to show fillets of fiber appearing at the ends.
These do not appear in the impression. It is highly probable, however,
that these fillets are plaited bands, as in the preceding example. They
are wide and flat, giving somewhat the effect of basket-work of splints
or of rushes. This specimen was obtained in Carter County, Tennessee.

We have a few pieces of this variety of fabric which have been preserved
by contact with the salts of copper. Professor Farquharson describes
an example from a mound on the banks of the Mississippi River, near
the city of Davenport. It had been wrapped about a copper implement
resembling a celt, and was at the time of its recovery in a very perfect
state of preservation. In describing this cloth Mr. Farquharson says
that
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