first stage; but it was nothing to what I suffered yesterday. We
were in hopes to reach Cologn; our horses tired at Stamel, three
hours from it, where I was forced to pass the night in my clothes, in
a room not at all better than a hovel; for though I have my bed with
me, I had no mind to undress, where the wind came from a thousand
places. We left this wretched lodging at day-break, and about six
this morning came safe here, where I got immediately into bed. I
slept so well for three hours, that I found myself perfectly
recovered, and have had spirits enough to go and see all that is
curious in the town, that is to say, the churches, for here is
nothing else worth seeing. This is a very large town, but the most
part of it is old built. The Jesuits church, which is the neatest,
was shewed (sic) me, in a very complaisant manner, by a handsome
young Jesuit; who, not knowing who I was, took a liberty in his
compliments and railleries, which very much diverted me. Having
never before seen any thing of that nature, I could not enough admire
the magnificence of the altars, the rich images of the saints (all
massy silver) and the _enchassures_ of the relicks (sic); though I
could not help murmuring, in my heart, at the profusion of pearls,
diamonds, and rubies, bestowed on the adornment of rotten teeth, and
dirty rags. I own that I had wickedness enough to covet St Ursula's
pearl necklaces; though perhaps this was no wickedness at all, an
image not being certainly one's neighbour's; but I went yet farther,
and wished the wench herself converted into dressing-plate. I should
also gladly see converted into silver, a great St Christopher, which
I imagine would look very well in a cistern. These were my pious
reflections: though I was very well satisfied to see, piled up to the
honour of our nation, the skulls of the eleven thousand virgins. I
have seen some hundreds of relicks here of no less, consequence; but
I will not imitate the common stile (sic) of travellers so far, as to