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How to Camp Out by John Mead Gould
page 59 of 125 (47%)
cloth from one piece, and thus save waste, by turning and tearing it in
two; these gore-pieces also overlap the longer breadths 3/4 of an inch.

The three breadths that make the sides or roof are cut all alike; their
length is found by measuring the plan from corner to corner over the
top; in the plan now under consideration, the distance will be nearly
sixteen feet. When you sew them, overlap the breadths 3/4 of an inch the
same as you do the end-breadths.

In sewing you can do no better than to run, with a machine, a row of
stitching as near each selvage as possible; you will thus have two rows
to each seam, which makes it strong enough. Use the coarsest cotton, No.
10 or 12.

The sides and two ends are made separately; when you sew them together
care must be taken, for the edges of the ends are cut cross-grained, and
will stretch very much more than the cloth of the sides (roof). About as
good a seam as you can make, in sewing together the sides and ends, is
to place the two edges together, and fold them outwards (or what will be
downwards when the tent is pitched) twice, a quarter of an inch each
time, and put two rows of stitching through if done on a machine, or one
if with sail-needle and twine. This folding the cloth six-ply, besides
making a good seam, strengthens the tent where the greatest strain
comes. It is also advisable to put facings in the two ends of the top of
the tent, to prevent the poles from pushing through and chafing.

The bottom of the tent is completed next by folding upwards and inwards
two inches of cloth to make what is called a "tabling," and again
folding in the raw edge about a quarter of an inch, as is usual to make
a neat job. Some makers enclose a marline or other small tarred rope to
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