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The Land of the Black Mountain - The Adventures of Two Englishmen in Montenegro by Gerald Prance;Reginald Wyon
page 26 of 410 (06%)
empire will be restored. The red crown signifies "the field of blood,"
as the Hebrews have it. Furthermore, the different insignia of rank
are worn on the rim of the cap, from the double eagle and lion of the
senator in brass, the different combinations of crossed swords of the
officer, to the simple star of lead of the corporal.

The costume consists of a "džamadan," a red waistcoat, embroidered
with gold or black silk--the former on gala occasions--over which the
"gunj" is worn, a long, white or very pale blue coat, cut so that the
breast is left open and free. Another sleeveless jacket is worn,
again, over the gunj, called the "jelek," and is a mass of heavy gold
and silk embroidery, quite stiff in fact, and a marvel of beautiful
tracing and patterns.

Round the waist are three separate belts, the first a common belt,
then the leather "kolan" for the support of the weapons, and over all
a silk sash, the "pas," sometimes twenty yards long, wound round and
round many times and of brilliant colours.

Below, knee-breeches of dark blue material and voluminous proportions,
called "gaće," bordered round the pockets with gold-work, and high,
patent-leather boots. This latter is merely modern dandyism; the still
invariably worn "dokoljenice" are white gaiters, fastened at the back
with hooks and eyes, which reach to the "opanki"--shoes made of a flat
leather sole, bound over with a thick network of whipcord.

The ordinary costume of the better classes for everyday wear (and this
is the uniform of the officers) is a short red jacket, embroidered
like the waistcoat in black silk, with sleeves carried either hussar
fashion, hanging behind, or over the sleeves of the waistcoat.
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