CHAPTER XVIII

S. Vasili and Ostrog--Our drive thither--Joyful pilgrims--Varied
costumes--We meet the Vladika of Montenegro--The ordeal of hot
coffee--A real pilgrimage--The shrine of S. Vasili--The ancient
hermit--A miracle--Nikšić--The gaudy cathedral and the Prince's
palace--We are disappointed at Nikšić


CHAPTER XIX

The Club and its members--Gugga--Irregularities of time--The absence
of the gentle muse and our surprise--The musician's story and his
subsequent fate--The Black Earth--A typical border house--The ordeal
of infancy--A realistic performance which is misunderstood--Concerning
a memorable drive--A fervent prayer


CHAPTER XX

We reconsider our opinion of Cetinje--A Montenegrin wake and its
consequences--A hero's death--Montenegrin conversation--Needless
appeals to the Deity--We visit the hospital


CHAPTER XXI

The Law Court in Cetinje--The Prince as patriarch--A typical