now and then a little checked in my discourse, by the reply, on his part,
of "Non prorsus intelligo." I am glad, however, to have seen this secluded
cabinet of books; which would have been the very place for the study of
Anthony Wood or Thomas Hearne. It had quite an air of monastic seclusion,
and it seemed as if scarcely six persons had trod the floor, or six volumes
had been taken down from the shelves, since the day when the key was first
turned upon the door which encloses the collection. After a few "_salves_,"
and one "_vale_," I returned to the White Stag.

The CATHEDRAL of ULM is doubtless among the most respectable of those upon
the continent. It is large and wide, and of a massive and imposing style of
architecture. The buttresses are bold, and very much after the English
fashion. The tower is the chief exterior beauty. Before we mounted it, we
begged the guide, who attended us, to conduct us all over the interior.
This interior is very noble: and even superior, as a piece of architecture,
to that of Strasbourg. I should think it even longer and wider--for the
truth is, that the tower of _Strasbourg_ Cathedral is as much too _tall_,
as that of _Ulm_ cathedral is too _short_, for its nave and choir. Not very
long ago, they had covered the interior by a white wash; and thus the
mellow tint of probably about five centuries--in a spot where there are few
immediately surrounding houses--and in a town of which the manufactories
and population are comparatively small--the _latter_ about 14,000--thus, I
say, the mellow tint of these five centuries (for I suppose the cathedral
to have been finished about the year 1320) has been cruelly changed for the
staring and chilling effects of whiting.

The choir is interesting in a high degree. At the extremity of it, is an
altar--indicative of the Lutheran form of worship[24] being carried on
within the church--upon which are oil paintings upon wood, emblazoned with
gilt backgrounds--of the time of _Hans Burgmair_, and of others at the