The Chemistry of Hat Manufacturing - Lectures Delivered Before the Hat Manufacturers' Association by Watson Smith
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page 13 of 178 (07%)
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is externally coated with a firmly adhering layer of flat overlying
scales, with not very even upper edges, as you see. The upper or free edges of these scales are all directed towards the end of the hair, and away from the root. But when you look at a hair in its natural state you cannot see these scales, so flat do they lie on the hair-shaft. What you see are only irregular transverse lines across it. Now I come to a matter of great importance, as will later on appear in connection with means for promoting felting properties. If a hair such as described, with the scales lying flat on the shaft, be treated with certain substances or reagents which act upon and dissolve, or decompose or disintegrate its parts, then the free edges of these scales rise up, they "set their backs up," so to say. They, in fact, stand off like the scales of a fir-cone, and at length act like the fir-cone in ripening, at last becoming entirely loose. As regards wool and fur, these scales are of the utmost importance, for very marked differences exist even in the wool of a single sheep, or the fur of a single hare. It is the duty of the wool-sorter to distinguish and separate the various qualities in each fleece, and of the furrier to do the same in the case of each fur. In short, upon the nature and arrangement and conformation of the scales on the hair-shafts, especially as regards those free upper edges, depends the distinction of the value of many classes of wool and fur. These scales vary both as to nature and arrangement in the case of the hairs of different animals, so that by the aid of the microscope we have often a means of determining from what kind of animal the hair has been derived. It is on the nature of this outside scaly covering of the shaft, and in the manner of attachment of these scaly plates, that the true distinction between wool and hair rests. The principal epidermal characteristic of a true wool is the capacity of its fibres to felt or mat together. This arises from the greater looseness of the scaly covering of the hair, so that when opposing hairs come into contact, the |
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