The Chemistry of Hat Manufacturing - Lectures Delivered Before the Hat Manufacturers' Association by Watson Smith
page 20 of 178 (11%)
page 20 of 178 (11%)
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suppose, if a German or French wool merchant or furrier could be
imagined as selling wool, etc., in part to a German or French firm, and in part to an English one, the latter would take the material without a murmur, though it might contain 10 per cent., or, peradventure, 30 per cent. of water, and no doubt the foreign, just as the English merchant or dealer, would get the best price he could, and regard the possible 10 per cent. or 30 per cent. of water present with certainly the more equanimity the more of that very cheap element there were present. But look at the other side. The German or French firm samples its lot as delivered, takes the sample to be tested, and that 10 or 30 per cent. of water is deducted, and only the dry wool is paid for. A few little mistakes of this kind, I need hardly say, will altogether form a kind of _vade mecum_ for the foreign competitor. We will now see what the effect of water is in the felting operation. Especially hot water assists that operation, and the effect is a curious one. When acid is added as well, the felting is still further increased, and shrinking also takes place. As already shown you, the free ends of the scales, themselves softened by the warm dilute acid, are extended and project more, and stand out from the shafts of the hairs. On the whole, were I a hat manufacturer, I should prefer to buy my fur untreated by that nitric acid and mercury process previously referred to, and promote its felting properties myself by the less severe and more rational course of proceeding, such, for example, as treatment with warm dilute acid. We have referred to two enemies standing in the way to the obtainment of a final lustre and finish on felted wool or fur, now let us expose a third. In the black dyeing of the hat-forms a boiling process is used. Let us hear what Dr. Bowman, in his work on the wool fibre, says with regard to boiling with water. "Wool which looked quite bright when well washed with tepid water, was |
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