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The Chemistry of Hat Manufacturing - Lectures Delivered Before the Hat Manufacturers' Association by Watson Smith
page 83 of 178 (46%)
parts of water, 40 of indigo, 60 to 80 of copperas crystals, and 50 to
100 of dry slaked lime. The usual plan is to put in the water first,
then add the indigo and copperas, which should be dissolved first, and
finally to add the milk of lime, stirring all the time. Artificial
indigo has been made from coal-tar products. The raw material is a
coal-tar naphtha called toluene or toluol, which is also the raw
material for saccharin, a sweetening agent made from coal-tar. This
artificial indigo is proving a formidable rival to the natural product.

Orchil paste, orchil extract, and cudbear are obtained by exposing the
plants (species of lichens) containing the colouring principle, called
_Orcin_, itself a colourless substance, to the joint action of ammonia
and air, when the oxygen of the air changes that orcin by oxidising it
into _Orcèin_, which is the true red colouring matter contained in the
preparations named. The lichens thus treated acquire gradually a deep
purple colour, and form the products called "cudbear." This dye works
best in a neutral bath, but it will do what not many dyes will, namely,
dye in either a slightly alkaline or slightly acid bath as well. Orchil
is not applicable in cotton dyeing. Being a substantive colour no
mordants are needed in dyeing silk and wool with it. The colour produced
on wool and silk is a bright magenta-red with bluish shade.

Litmus is also obtained from the same lichens as yield orchil. It is not
used in dyeing, and is a violet-blue colouring matter when neither acid
nor alkaline, but neutral as it is termed. It turns red with only a
trace of acid, and blue with the least trace of alkali, and so forms a
very delicate reagent when pieces of paper are soaked with it, and
dipped into the liquids to be tested.

Safflower: This vegetable dyeing material, for producing pink colours on
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