effects that follow the use of soap and calcareous water. The carbonate
of soda solutions ought not to exceed the specific gravity of 1° to 2°
Twaddell (1-1/2 to 3 oz. avoird. per gallon of water). The safest plan
is to work with as considerable a degree of dilution and as low a
temperature as are consistent with fetching the dirt and grease off. The
scouring of loose wool, as we may now readily discern, divides itself
into three stages: 1st, the stage in which those "yolk" or "suint"
constituents soluble in water, are removed by steeping and washing in
water. This operation is generally carried out by the wool-grower
himself, for he desires to sell wool, and not wool plus "yolk" or
"suint," and thus he saves himself considerable cost in transport. The
water used in this process should not be at a higher temperature than
113° F., and the apparatus ought to be provided with an agitator; 2nd,
the cleansing or scouring proper, with a weak alkaline solution; 3rd,
the rinsing or final washing in water.

Thus far we have proceeded along the same lines as the woollen
manufacturer, but now we must deviate from that course, for he requires
softness and delicacy for special purposes, for spinning and weaving,
etc.; but the felt manufacturer, and especially the manufacturer of felt
for felt hats, requires to sacrifice some of this softness and delicacy
in favour of greater felting powers, which can only be obtained by
raising the scales of the fibres by means of a suitable process, such
as treatment with acids. This process is one which is by no means
unfavourable to the dyeing capacities of the wool; on the whole it is
decidedly favourable.

So far everything in the treatment of the wool has been perfectly
favourable for the subsequent operations of the felt-hat dyer, but now I
come to a process which I consider I should be perfectly unwarranted in