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Navajo weavers - Third Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the - Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1881-'82, - Government Printing Office, Washington, 1884, pages 371-392. by Washington Matthews
page 15 of 24 (62%)

The above is a description of the simplest mechanism by which the
Navajos make their blankets; but in manufacturing diagonals, sashes,
garters, and hair-bands the mechanism is much more complicated.

ยง VII. For making diagonals the warp is divided into four sheds; the
uppermost one of these is provided with a shed-rod, the others are
supplied with healds. I will number the healds and sheds from below
upwards. The following diagram shows how the threads of the warp are
arranged in the healds and on the rod.

[Illustration: FIG. 45.--Diagram showing arrangement of threads of the
warp in the healds and on the rod.]

[Illustration: FIG. 46.--Weaving of saddle-girth.]

When the weaver wishes the diagonal ridges to run upwards from right
to left, she opens the sheds in regular order from below upwards thus:
First, second, third, fourth, first, second, third, fourth, &c. When
she wishes the ridges to trend in the contrary direction she opens the
sheds in the inverse order. I found it convenient to take my
illustrations of this mode of weaving from a girth. In Figs. 44 and 46
the mechanism is plainly shown. The lowest (first) shed is opened and
the first set of healds drawn forward. The rings of the girth take the
place of the beams of the loom.

There is a variety of diagonal weaving practiced by the Navajos which
produces diamond figures; for this the mechanism is the same as that
just described, except that the healds are arranged differently on the
warp. The following diagram will explain this arrangement.
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