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Navajo weavers - Third Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the - Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1881-'82, - Government Printing Office, Washington, 1884, pages 371-392. by Washington Matthews
page 19 of 24 (79%)
belts, garters, and hair-bands, which we will next consider, presents
many interesting variations from, the method pursued in making
blankets. To form, a sash the weaver proceeds as follows: She drives
into the ground four sticks and on them she winds her warp as a
continuous string (however, as the warp usually consists of threads of
three different colors it is not always _one_ continuous string) from,
below upwards in such a way as to secure two sheds, as shown in the
diagram, Fig. 56.

[Illustration: FIG. 57.--Section of Navajo belt.]

[Illustration: FIG. 58.--Wooden heald of the Zuñis.]

Every turn of the warp passes over the sticks _a_, and _b_; but it is
alternate turns that pass over _c_ and _d_. When the warp is laid she
ties a string around the intersection of the sheds at _e_, so as to
keep the sheds separate while she is mounting the warp on the beams.
She then places the upper beam of the loom in the place of the stick
_b_ and the lower beam in the place of the stick _a_. Sometimes the
upper and lower beams are secured to the two side rails forming a
frame such as the warp of a blanket is wound on (§ IV), but more
commonly the loom is arranged in the manner shown in Plate XXXVI; that
is, the upper beam is secured to a rafter, post, or tree, while to the
lower beam is attached a loop of rope that passes under the thighs of
the weaver, and the warp is rendered tense by her weight. Next, the
upper shed is supplied with a shed-rod, and the lower shed with a set
of healds. Then the stick at _f_ (upper stick in Plate XXXVI) is put
in; this is simply a round stick, about which one loop of each thread
of the warp is thrown. (Although the warp may consist of only one
thread I must now speak of each turn as a separate thread.) Its use is
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