CHAPTER III

ON BOARD A MAN O' WAR


In January, 1883, the big troop-ship bearing reinforcements for the
Mediterranean Squadron steamed into Malta Harbour and we were
transferred to our respective ships. The _Alexandra_ was supposed to
be the most powerful ship in Victoria's navy at that time. She carried
the flag of Admiral Lord John Hay. She was a little city of the sea
with her divisions of labour, her social distinctions, her alleys and
her avenues. She had a population of about one thousand inhabitants.
These were divided into officers, petty officers, bluejackets and
marines. Around the flagship lay half a dozen other ships of the
fleet. I was fascinated with the variety of things around me in that
little city, and for the first few days on board spent all my leisure
time in exploring this mysterious underwater world. Her guns were of
the heaviest calibre. Her steel walls were decorated with ponderous
Pallasier shot and shell. I was struck with the marvellous
cleanliness. Her decks were white. Every inch of brasswork was
shining; everything in order; everything trim and neat; neither
slovenly men nor slovenly conditions.

Malta Harbour is one of the finest in the world. The old City of La
Vallette looks like an immense fortress, which it really is, and the
next thing to explore was the Island.

It seemed as if I had entered an entirely new world. My heart was full
of joy, my mind full of hope, and my uniform for the time being was