make a smear. Every time after wetting the rubber and putting on the
cover it should be pressed upon the palm of the hand, or if a small
rubber it can be tested between the thumb and finger. This is an
important operation, for by it the polisher can easily tell the exact
state of moisture, and at the same time, by the pressure being applied,
the moisture is equalised. The tip of the finger should then be just
dipped into the linseed-oil, and applied to the face of it; if the
rubber should be rather sappy, the greatest care must be used or a
coarse streaky roughness will be produced; extreme lightness of hand is
required until the rubber is nearly dry. (It would be a serious error to
bear heavily on the rubber while the surface is moist; to do so, and to
use too much oil on the rubber, are the causes of many failures in
polishing.)

In commencing to work, pass the rubber a few times gently and lightly
over the surface in the direction of the grain; then rub across the
grain in a series of circular movements, all one way, in full and free
sweeping strokes, until the rubber is dry. Continue this operation until
the pores are filled in, and the surface assumes a satisfactory
appearance. It should then be left for about twelve hours; the polish
will be well into the wood by that time. The polish should then be
carefully rubbed down with No. glass-paper; this will remove the atomic
roughness usually caused by the rising of the grain during the sinking
period. In flat-surface work a paper cork can be used, and the rubbing
lightly and regularly done in a careful manner, so as to avoid rubbing
through the outer skin, especially at the edges and corners, or the work
will be irremediably defaced.

The woods which possess a rising grain are well known to polishers;
these are the light-coloured woods with a coarse grain, viz., ash,