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French Polishing and Enamelling - A Practical Work of Instruction by Richard Bitmead
page 32 of 136 (23%)
greatest care. A few hours should be allowed to harden, and then
finished off with a rubber slightly damped with thin polish. This is an
expensive method, but it will pay in appearance for all the time
bestowed.

For the best class of cabinet and pianoforte work in amboyna or
burr-walnut it is advisable not to use linseed-oil on the sole of the
rubber when polishing, but the best hog's lard; the reason for this is
that these veneers being so extremely thin and porous the oil will
quickly penetrate through to the groundwork, softening the glue, and
causing the veneers to rise in a number of small blisters. Of course,
this is not always the case, but the use of lard instead of oil will be
found a good preventative. Lard is also used on the above class of work
when it is desirable to preserve the colour of the wood in its natural
state.

The following method is employed for the best work: Immediately on
receiving the job from the cabinet-maker, a good coating of thin, clean
glue should be applied with a sponge or brush; this is allowed to dry,
and thoroughly harden; it is then cleaned off, using the scraper and
glass-paper, cutting it down to the wood. The bodying-in with white
polish is the next process, the usual sinking period being allowed; it
is again cleaned off, but the scraper this time should not quite reach
the wood. Then embody again, and treat in a like manner. In getting up
the permanent body, commence with a slight embodying; let this stand,
and when the sinking period is over rub it down with a felt rubber and
powdered pumice-stone; continue this several times, till the surface
presents a satisfactory appearance, and the job is ready for the
spiriting process. By this means the wood will retain its natural
colour, and a beautiful transparent polish will result, and remain for a
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