the cliff, and went soaring round and round, evidently in much alarm at
the unwonted noise. We counted fourteen of these magnificent birds. I
wanted to get a shot at one, but they never came near enough. After
circling round for several minutes they flew with one accord to the
opposite woods, and were no more seen.

The view from the Stierberg is splendid. On every side were stretches of
primeval forest. Bounding the horizon on the north-east we made out the
Transylvanian Alps; to the south lay Servia, and more distant still the
Balkan Mountains. As the sun rose higher, lighting up in a marvellous
way all the details of this fair landscape, we could see far eastward a
strip of the Danube flashing in the sunbeams.

We turned reluctantly from the grand panorama, but we began to feel the
distressing effects of thirst. We had failed to procure any sheep's
milk, but the postmaster declared that when we got back to our
camping-place we should be able to find some fresh water. Arrived at
this pleasant spot, we rested under the beech-trees, and sent off two of
the Serbs to look for water. After waiting some time one of them brought
us some, but it was from a stagnant pool, alive with animalculæ, quite
unfit to drink. I never remember suffering so much from thirst. The heat
was excessive, but happily before reaching the Danube we found a
delicious spring gushing out from the limestone rock. It was an
indescribable refreshment for thirsty souls. We further regaled
ourselves with a good meal at the village on the Hungarian side of the
Danube, after crossing again in the "dug-out."

The pope of the village entered into conversation with us, and finding I
was a stranger he ordered a Wallack dance for our amusement. The
costumes of the women were picturesque, but the dance itself was a slow