* * * * *

_Arona, on the banks of the Lago Maggiore._--Rousseau mentions
somewhere, that it was once his intention to place the scene of the
Heloïse in the Borromean Islands. What a French idea! How strangely
incongruous had the pastoral simplicity of his lovers appeared in such
a scene! It must have changed, if not the whole plan, at least the
whole colouring of the tale. Imagine _la divine_ JULIE tripping up and
down the artificial terraces of the Isola Bella, among flower pots and
statues, and colonnades and grottos; and St. Preux sighing towards
her, from some trim fantastic wilderness in the Isola Madre!

The day was heavenly, and I shall never forget the sunset, as we
viewed it reflected in the lake, which appeared at one moment an
expanse of living fire. This is the first we have seen of those
effulgent sunsets with which Italy will make us familiar.

_Milan._--Our journey yesterday, through the flat fertile plains of
Lombardy, was not very interesting; and the want of novelty and
excitement made it fatiguing, in spite of the matchless roads and the
celerity with which we travelled.

Whatever we may think of Napoleon in England, it is impossible to
travel on the Continent, and more particularly through Lombardy,
without being struck with the magnificence and vastness of his public
works--either designed or executed. He is more regretted here than in
France; or rather he has not been so soon banished from men's minds.
In Italy he followed the rational policy of depressing the nobles, and
providing occupation and amusement for the lower classes. I spoke
to-day with an intelligent artisan, who pointed out to us a hall built