Port Lyttelton at the time was but an insignificant town in comparison
with what it has since become, although from its confined situation it
is unlikely ever to attain to any great size. It is the port of the
capital of the province, Christchurch, from which it is separated by a
chain of hills. A rough and somewhat dangerous cart road led from it to
the capital, along and around the hill side, which was twelve miles in
length, but there was also a bridle track direct across the hills, by
which the distance was reduced by one-half. This path, however, could be
used only by pedestrians, or on horseback with difficulty. In 1862 it
was decided to connect the port with Christchurch by a railway, cutting
a tunnel through the hill, and the project was completed in 1866. In
1859 Port Lyttelton was built entirely of wood, the houses being for the
most part single-storeyed. There was a main street running parallel to
the beach, with two or three branch streets, running up the hill
therefrom; there were a few shops, several stores, stables, and small
inns. The harbour was an open roadstead, and possessed but a primitive
sort of quay or landing place for boats and vessels of small tonnage.

We were invited on shore by the Leach's sheep-farming cousin, who had
come to meet them, but we returned on board to sleep. The following
morning, getting our luggage together, we all four started for
Christchurch on hired horses, sending our kit round the hill by cart.
The climb up the bridle path (we had to lead the horses) was a stiff
pull for fellows just out of a three months' voyage, but we were repaid
on reaching the top by the magnificent panorama opened out before us. To
our right was the open ocean, blue and calm, dotted with a few white
sails; to the left the long low range of hills encircling the bay, and
on a pinnacle of which we stood. At our feet lay Christchurch, with its