to the town of Caen. Are either of our 'memorials' likely to fulfil
these conditions?

Not to go further into detail, there is no doubt that, elaborate and
magnificent as the 'Albert Memorial' may be, it is useless,
inappropriate, and out of place in Hyde Park; and that the 'Hall of
Science' at South Kensington (whatever its use may be) is not likely to
attract foreign nations by the external beauty of its design.

At Caen we are in an atmosphere of heroes and kings, we pass from one
historical site to another until the mind becomes half confused; we are
shown (by the same valet-de-place) the tomb of the Conqueror, and the
house where Beau Brummel died. We see the ruins of a castle on the
heights where le 'jeune et beau Dunois' performed historical prodigies
of valour; and the chapel where he 'allait prier Marie, bénir ses
exploits.' But the modern military aspect of things is, we are bound to
confess, prosaic to a degree; we find the Dunois of the period occupied
in more peaceful pursuits, mending shoes, tending little children, and
carrying wood for winter fires.

[Illustration]

There are many other buildings and churches at Caen which we should
examine, especially the exterior carving of '_St. Étienne-le-vieux_;'
which is now used as a warehouse.

The cathedrals and monuments are generally, as we have said, in
wonderful preservation, but they are desecrated without remorse; on
every side of them, and, indeed, upon them, are staring advertisements
of 'magazines,' dedicated '_au bon diable_,' '_au petit diable_,' or to