built upon the sides of a lofty hill commanding views over a vast extent
of country, it is approached on both sides up steep hills, by broad
smooth roads with avenues of trees and surrounding gardens, and is
surmounted by its magnificent old cathedral, which is the last important
building of the kind, that we shall see, until we reach Rouen; and one
the traveller is never likely to forget, especially if he ascend the
tower, as we did, one morning whilst service was being performed
below.[24]

It was our last morning at Coutances, the air was still and clear, and
the panorama was superb; on every side of us were beautiful hills, rich
with orchards laden with fruit, and fields of corn; and beyond them, far
away westward, the sea and coast line, and the channel islands with
their dangerous shores. The air was calm, and dreamy, but in the
distance we could see white lines of foam--the 'wild horses' of the
Atlantic in full career; beneath our feet was the open 'lantern dome,'
and the sound of voices came distinctly up the fluted columns; we could
hear the great organ under the western towers, the voices of the
congregation in the nave, and the chanting of the priests before the
altar,--

'Casting down their golden crowns, beside the glassy sea.'

The town of GRANVILLE, built on a rock by the sea, with its dark granite
houses, its harbour and fishing-boats, presents a scene of bustle and
activity in great contrast to Coutances and St. Lo. There is an upper
and lower town--a town on the rocks, with its old church with five gilt
statues, built almost out at sea--and another town, on the shore. The
streets of the old town are narrow and badly paved; but there is great
commercial activity, and a general sign of prosperity amongst its