that during the same season I put several hundred scions of these same
English walnuts on the Eastern black walnut stocks without a single
successful graft occurring.

In 1933 and 1934, many of these experimentally grafted walnuts, such as
Vandersloot, Paterson, and Rohwer as well as others, were planted in
orchard formation. In digging these trees, we took care to get all of
the root possible and to take a ball of dirt with the root. In spite of
these precautions, some of the trees died, not having sufficient
vitality and root development to withstand transplantation. This was a
result not only of the crowded condition under which the stocks had
grown but also of the poor soil which had nourished them. The soil was
heavy blue clay underlaid with limestone within two feet of the top of
the ground. Enough trees were set out in orchard formation which are
growing well and bearing annual crops, to give us the proof we need in
drawing conclusions of superiority among these varieties.

Black walnuts will keep for several years if they are properly dried and
then stored in a cool, but not too damp, place. Storing nuts in attics
which are likely to become excessively hot in the summer time, causes
rancidity sooner than any other method. Nuts keep very well in attics
during the winter but they should be transferred to a basement during
hot weather. If the basement is very damp, though, nuts will mould
there. For general storage, without having to move them from one place
to another for different seasons, nuts can be kept most practically in a
barn or outside shed. The only precaution necessary under such
circumstances is that they should be in a box or steel barrel to prevent
squirrels and mice from feeding on them, since barns and sheds are
easily accessible to these animals.