the Renaissance period, raised and lowered by means of pulleys. The
organ case is also good; and having said so much, there is nothing left
to record in favour of St. Melaine. The general effect of the church is
poor and mean, and the most vivid impression left upon the mind is that
caused by the sharp climb up the narrow street and flight of steps, with
little reward beyond one's trouble for the pains of mounting.

But other churches in the neighbourhood of Morlaix are well worth
visiting; churches typical of the Finistère, with their wonderful
calvaries, mortuaries and triumphal arches.

"These," said Monsieur Hellard, our host of the Hôtel d'Europe, who had,
by this time, fully atoned for the transgressions of that one and almost
fatal night--"these must on no account be neglected. Morlaix, more than
any other town in the Finistère, as it seems to me, is surrounded by
objects of intense interest; monuments of antiquity, both secular and
religious."

"Yet you are not the chief town of the Finistère," we observed.

"True," he replied; "Quimper is our chief town; we are only second in
rank; but in many ways we are more interesting than Quimper."

"You are partial," cried H.C., but very amiably. "What about Quimper's
wonderful cathedral? Where can you match that architectural dream in
Morlaix?"

"There, indeed, I give in," returned our host, meekly. "Morlaix has
nothing to boast of in the way of churches, thanks to the revolution.
But in the neighbourhood, each within the limits of a day's excursion,