remains of barbarism.'

"'Madame,' I replied, 'you must not forget that we are descended from
the Ancient Britons.' Ah! that was a clencher, Madame laughed, but she
said no more."

"Until she returned," added our hostess. "Then she whispered to me:
'Madame Hellard, those pancakes looked extremely good, and as they are
peculiar to Brittany, you must give us some for dinner. I must taste
your _crêpes_.'

"'Madame la Comtesse,' I returned, 'Brittany has many peculiarities; we
cannot deny it; would that they were all as innocent as these crêpes. My
chef is not a Breton, and he will not make them, perhaps, quite à la
manière des nôtres; but I will superintend him for once. You shall have
our famous dish.' And if you wish to know how she liked them," concluded
Madame, laughing, "ask Catherine, là-haut. Three times a week at least
we had pancakes on the menu. But nothing delights us more than when we
please our guests. We like them to be at home here, and to feel that
they may do as they please and order what they like."

To the truth of which self-commendation we bore good testimony.

"Now about the excursions," said M. Hellard. "I recommend you to go
to-morrow to St. Thégonnec and Guimiliau, the next day to St.
Jean-du-Doigt and Plougasnou, and the third day to Landerneau and Le
Folgoët. The two first by carriage, the last by train."

So it was arranged, and we were about to separate when in came our
hostess of that little auberge by the river-side, _A la halte des