we tried a severe threat. "If you are not back again by table d'hôte
time, you shall have no pourboire," we said, in solemn and determined
tones. The effect was excellent. We had no more trouble, but the
unfortunate horse had a great deal of whip.

There was very little to notice in the country we passed through. The
most conspicuous objects were the large stone crucifixes erected here
and there by the roadside or where two roads met: ancient and beautiful;
and throwing, as we have remarked, a religious tone and atmosphere over
the country. It was wonderfully picturesque to see, as we occasionally
did, a Brittany peasant kneeling at the foot of one of these old
crosses, the pure white Brittany cap standing out conspicuously against
the dark grey stone: a figure wrapped in devotion, apparently lost to
the sense of all outward things. It all adds a charm to one's wanderings
in Brittany.

St. Thégonnec at last, announced some time before we reached it by its
remarkable church, which is very visible in the flatness of the
surrounding country. The small town numbers some three thousand
inhabitants, but has almost the primitive look of a village. Many of the
people still wear the costumes of the place, especially on a Sunday,
when the interior of the church at high mass looks very picturesque and
imposing.

The dress of the women is peculiar, and at first sight they might almost
be taken for nuns or sisters of mercy: a dress which leaves scope for a
certain refinement rather contradicted by the physical appearance of the
women themselves. Men and women, in fact, belong for the most part to
the peasantry, and pass their simple lives labouring in the fields,
beating out flax, cultivating their little gardens, so that such an