A long while afterward, when this death of the King was as nothing
(_i mea ole_), and he recovered as formerly, the priest refrained
not from warning him, saying: "You have escaped from this death;
there remains for you one other."

After Milu became convalescent from his recent serious experience,
a few months perhaps had elapsed, when the surf at Waipio became very
high and was breaking heavily on the beach. This naturally caused
much commotion and excitement among the people, as the numerous
surf-riders, participating in the sport, would land upon the beach
on their surf-boards. Continuous cheering prevailed, and the hilarity
rendered Milu so impatient at the restraint put upon him by the priest
that he forsook his wise counsel and joined in the exhilarating sport.

Seizing a surf-board he swam out some distance to the selected spot
for suitable surfs. Here he let the first and second combers pass
him; but watching his opportunity he started with the momentum of the
heavier third comber, catching the crest just right. Quartering on
the rear of his board, he rode in with majestic swiftness, and landed
nicely on the beach amid the cheers and shouts of the people. He then
repeated the venture and was riding in as successfully, when, in a
moment of careless abandon, at the place where the surfs finish as
they break on the beach, he was thrust under and suddenly disappeared,
while the surf-board flew from under and was thrown violently upon the
shore. The people in amazement beheld the event, and wildly exclaimed:
"Alas! Milu is dead! Milu is dead!" With sad wonderment they searched
and watched in vain for his body. Thus was seen the result of repeated
disobedience.