its streets, with the exception of one or two, are in general
narrow, and the houses lofty: but it is compact, and, on the
whole, clean, and neatly built. The number of inhabitants I
should be inclined to estimate at somewhere about thirty
thousand, exclusive of the garrison, which at this time amounted
to fourteen or fifteen thousand men; but as most of the families
appear to live in the style of those in the old town of
Edinburgh, that is to say, several under the same roof, though
each in a separate story or flat, it is not difficult to conceive
how they contrive to find sufficient room, within a compass
apparently so narrow. Of its commerce and manufactures I can say
little, except that I should not imagine either to be extensive.
I am led to form this opinion, partly from having seen no
shipping at the wharfs, and partly because the Adour, though
here both wide and deep, is rendered unnavigable to vessels of
any size, by a shallow or bar at its mouth. There was, indeed,
a sloop of war close to the town, but how it got there I am at a
loss to conceive, unless it were built upon the river, and kept
as an additional protection against a surprise from the water.
The shops are, however, good, particularly those where jewellery
is sold; an article in the setting and adorning of which the
French, if they do not excel us in really substantial value,
undoubtedly surpass us in elegance.

When I had taken as complete a survey of the town as I felt
disposed to take, I crossed the bridge with the intention of
inspecting the interior of the citadel. Here, however, I was
disappointed, no strangers being admitted within its gates; but
as there was no objection made to my reconnoitring it from
without, I proceeded towards the point where our trenches had