speedily changed again into rejoicings, for before mid-day the
breeze once more freshened, and we approached every moment nearer
and nearer to the object of our wishes. As soon, too, as we
contrived to double the projecting headland which had attracted
our attention in the morning, our course became productive of
much interest and pleasure. We had neared the shore
considerably, and were moving at a rate sufficiently rapid to
prevent further repining, and at the same time slow enough to
permit a distinct and calm survey of the beach, with the numerous
villages, seats, and convents that adorned it.

The island of St. Michael is mountainous, even to the very edge
of the water, but the heights, though lofty, do not present a
rugged or barren appearance. Here and there, indeed, bare rocks
push themselves into notice, but in general the ascent is easy,
and the hills are covered to the tops with groves of orange-trees
and beautiful green pasturage. Like other Portuguese
settlements, this island abounds in religious houses, the
founders of many of which do not appear to have been deficient in
taste when they pitched upon situations for building. There was
one of these in particular that struck me: it stood upon a sort
of platform or terrace, about half-way between the sea and the
summit of the mountain; above it were hanging woods, whether
natural or artificial I cannot say, broken in upon here and there
by projecting rocks; and round it were plantations of orange-trees
loaded with fruit, and interspersed with myrtles and other
odoriferous shrubs. Being greatly pleased with the mansion and
the surrounding scenery, I naturally inquired from the pilot (for
one had already come off to us) as to its use, and the quality of
Its owner; and from him I learnt that it was a convent, I forget