were presented, our host, being an intelligent person, did not
fail to render himself an agreeable companion; and what
contributed in no slight degree to the facility of our
intercourse was, that though he assured us he had never quitted
St. Michael's in his life, he spoke English with the fluency of a
native. Among other pieces of information we learnt from him
that the reef which impeded our progress towards the land, had
formerly been an island. It appeared, he affirmed, one morning,
in the most sudden and extraordinary manner, as if it had been
thrown up by an earthquake during the night, and having continued
so long above water as to embolden a single family of fishers to
settle upon it, it disappeared again as suddenly as it had come,
leaving no trace of its existence except the rocks which we had
found so troublesome. Whether there be truth in this story, I
cannot pretend to determine; and yet I see no reason to doubt the
word of a man of respectability, who could have no motive
whatever for deceiving us. But this was not all that we learnt
from him respecting the reef. He declared that previous to the
appearance of the island, the water in that very spot was
unfathomable; and it was not till after it had sunk, that a
single rock stood in the way to prevent the largest ship of war
from anchoring within a stone's throw of the beach.

Finding our new acquaintance so civil and obliging, we naturally
informed him of our intention to proceed next morning to Ponto
del Gada, the principal town in St. Michael's, and requested his
assistance in procuring some mode of conveyance; but we were
startled by the intelligence that nothing of the kind could be
had, and that there were not even horses or mules to be hired at
any place nearer than the very town whither we were going. This