Besides the churches and convents, amounting in all to not fewer
than nine, there is a fort erected for the protection of the
harbour, which we likewise endeavoured to see, but were prevented
by the sentinel at the gate, who refused us admittance. The
disappointment, however, was not great, as it was easy to
perceive, from its outward appearance, that the fort could
possess few points worthy of observation; and, indeed, we
attributed the reluctance evinced in admitting strangers to its
utter uselessness as a place of defence.

To describe all this occupies but a small portion of time; but to
see it was the laborious employment of an entire day. Wearied
out at length with my exertions, and not feeling much rewarded,
at least for the latter part of my trouble, I returned in
the evening to the hotel, where, as the ships were still at
anchor, taking on board water and fresh provisions, I ventured to
spend the night.

Having thus discovered that there was little in the works of art,
and a great deal in those of nature, throughout St. Michael's, to
interest the traveller, a friend and myself determined to set off
next morning on a visit to the volcano. With this design we
ordered asses, for asses are the only animals for hire, to be in
readiness by daybreak; and finding them in waiting at the time
appointed, we took a guide with us and pushed forward in the
direction of the dark smoke. The mountain with its crater being
distinctly visible from Ponto del Gada, we took it for granted
the distance between the two places could not exceed twelve or
fourteen miles; but, on inquiring of our guide, we learned that
the nearest road would carry us at least twenty-seven miles from